The warm-growing orchids include the popular phalaenopsis, and ideally they should be grown at a minimum winter night temperature of 18C (64F), with a summer day maximum of 32C (90F). However, in indoor conditions, where the atmosphere is naturally drier than in a greenhouse, they seem to do well at temperatures that are closer to those of the intermediate orchids. If you are growing your orchids indoors, you can usually find various positions around the home to suit these different temperature-range plants.
A useful piece of equipment is a maximum/minimum thermometer, or even several, which can be placed close to the orchids and the temperatures noted. In a greenhouse, it becomes difficult to grow orchids from these three ranges together in one place. What suits one group will not suit another, and you will find that inevitably some orchids will suffer from being too cold or too warm. An ideal situation is to divide a greenhouse into two or three sections, depending upon which orchids you wish to grow.
Very small greenhouses are unsuitable because the sections created will be very small and the temperatures extremely difficult to manage. Ideally, two or three small greenhouses where the various temperature-range orchids can each be given their ideal would be best, but this is rather an extravagant option for the home grower
In winter, most orchids, with the exception of the phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums, can take all the light that is available. This will ensure that sufficient ripening of the pseudo bulbs takes place, which is also an important factor in their flowering.
Orchids grown indoors have less light available, and the orchids will only receive this from one direction, so the dangers of giving too much light is not so great a problem. During the winter, it can be a disadvantage if plants are not getting enough light, and it can be difficult to increase this through the window area.
After their winter's rest, orchids commence their new growth in the spring. Repot the plants as soon as this happens and before the new roots start at the base.
The intermediate orchids, which include the showy cattleyas and the handsome, shade-loving paphiopedilums, require a winter night-time temperature that is 3C (5F) higher, giving a minimum of 13C (55F) at night. Wherever possible, there should be a higher temperature by day, but this should not exceed 310 C (86F). Again, temperatures on either side of these recommendations bill cause the plants considerable stress, and over a prolonged period can cause their eventual demise.
Orchids can be fed at all ages, from young seedlings and propagations to adult plants. Feed only healthy plants, however, because they have the ability to absorb and convert the chemicals. Do feed plants that are sick or have lost their roots. New roots that appear may be burnt by the residue remaining in the compost (growing medium). For the same reason, do not feed orchids that are resting. Their roots will have become inactive, and the chemicals will remain in the compost where they may cause harm as the plant sans into growth in the spring. - 16477
A useful piece of equipment is a maximum/minimum thermometer, or even several, which can be placed close to the orchids and the temperatures noted. In a greenhouse, it becomes difficult to grow orchids from these three ranges together in one place. What suits one group will not suit another, and you will find that inevitably some orchids will suffer from being too cold or too warm. An ideal situation is to divide a greenhouse into two or three sections, depending upon which orchids you wish to grow.
Very small greenhouses are unsuitable because the sections created will be very small and the temperatures extremely difficult to manage. Ideally, two or three small greenhouses where the various temperature-range orchids can each be given their ideal would be best, but this is rather an extravagant option for the home grower
In winter, most orchids, with the exception of the phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums, can take all the light that is available. This will ensure that sufficient ripening of the pseudo bulbs takes place, which is also an important factor in their flowering.
Orchids grown indoors have less light available, and the orchids will only receive this from one direction, so the dangers of giving too much light is not so great a problem. During the winter, it can be a disadvantage if plants are not getting enough light, and it can be difficult to increase this through the window area.
After their winter's rest, orchids commence their new growth in the spring. Repot the plants as soon as this happens and before the new roots start at the base.
The intermediate orchids, which include the showy cattleyas and the handsome, shade-loving paphiopedilums, require a winter night-time temperature that is 3C (5F) higher, giving a minimum of 13C (55F) at night. Wherever possible, there should be a higher temperature by day, but this should not exceed 310 C (86F). Again, temperatures on either side of these recommendations bill cause the plants considerable stress, and over a prolonged period can cause their eventual demise.
Orchids can be fed at all ages, from young seedlings and propagations to adult plants. Feed only healthy plants, however, because they have the ability to absorb and convert the chemicals. Do feed plants that are sick or have lost their roots. New roots that appear may be burnt by the residue remaining in the compost (growing medium). For the same reason, do not feed orchids that are resting. Their roots will have become inactive, and the chemicals will remain in the compost where they may cause harm as the plant sans into growth in the spring. - 16477
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